For most visitors to this iconic location, Niagara Falls is the ultimate destination. It is the place one travels to, spends some time at, and then subsequently travels home from. When I think of Niagara’s typical visitors, I think of a family from a place like New York, that made the grueling six hour drive to get there, and will make the grueling six hour drive home.
I guess my sometimes fanatical quest to not be like “normal people”, whatever that means, is working. I certainly do not feel normal. My day, which began with an 1:15 A.M. flight out of Denver, involved traveling from airport to airport carrying not luggage or a back pack of sorts, but two panniers, one in each hand.
In a way my journey actually began at a tiny bike shop in Niagara, NY called Beeton’s Cyclery.
I need to give this place a serious shout out. I shipped my bike here. It arrived on Friday, June 24th. I told them I needed it by Monday, and they were able to get the bike assembled (to package a bike for shipping, the pedals, handlebars, seat, and front tire must be removed) and apply new handlebar stripping in time for me to arrive late morning Monday and start my voyage.
I brought my passport, knowing that I wanted to visit the Canadian side of the falls. Anyone who has been to Niagara told me that the Canadian side was “better”. I wasn’t sure what that meant. The contrast between the two sides is quite stark. Niagara, NY is sort of depressing. I had trouble finding a place to grab a snack, while I gazed ahead at tall buildings and casinos on the other side.
Still, I wanted to see the falls from the U.S. side first. The plan was to meet up with my friends on the other side and spend the evening there.
On the American side, the view of the falls is somewhat awkward.
Well, it is from he riverfront. There is this overlook, where theoretically the view is spectacular, but it costs like $18 to go on it, so I didn’t.
Getting to the falls on the Canadian side involved going over the same bridge that cars travel over. The toll for bikes is only $.50 (I believe cars is $3.50), but I still had to wait in the same traffic cars wait in to cross into Canada.
Once I crossed the border, I realized why most of the tourist attractions, hotels, and buildings and such were on he Canadian side of the border. By happenstance of geography, the views from this side of the river are better.
This includes both falls that make up what is called “Niagara Falls”, the American Falls, which are on the U.S. side of the river, which splits around an island, and Horseshoe Falls, which are on the Canadian side. Both falls are magnificent. Horseshoe Falls is more powerful, but I actually prefer American Falls, particularly the way the water hits he rocks and sort of foams up. Both falls are best viewed from Canada.
I’ve always loved waterfalls for some reason. Much like one’s taste in music or art, it is not something that can be explained. Waterfalls just feel natural to me, they feel peaceful and even sometimes graceful.
In the world of waterfalls though, Niagara Falls is pretty much the opposite of any of the waterfalls I typically view out West. Waterfalls in the west, such as the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, tend to be tall and skinny, falling a much greater vertical distance, but carrying much less water. Niagara is high volume but the vertical drop is actually less than 200 feet.
I also could never imagine waterfalls in the west being as commercialized as these. In addition to the $18 charge for getting on the overlook in the New York side, the town of Niagara Falls, Ontario is filled with every establishment one would expect to find in a tourist trap packed together at a density I have only seen in one place before; Gatlinburg, Tennessee.
Gatlinburg, like Estes Park, is outside a popular National Park. The hotels, mini golf, and Ripley’s Believe it or Not, are miles away from the iconic natural beauty that made those places worth preserving through the National Park system. All of these places in Niagara Falls are within a mile or so of the falls. In fact, one can get another perspective of the falls by riding a ferris wheel next to the mini golf course across from the laser tag.
Tomorrow a long journey by bicycle begins. Tonight, I get to continue to savor these falls, as they are lit up at dusk as part of a nightly illumination. This, like the rest of town, adds a man made touch to a natural phenomenon. Some love it, some hate it, most find a way to enjoy it regardless of the opinion they expose. As for me, my focus turns to the days ahead, for unlike most of the others watching the illumination, my journey is only beginning.